I miss good waves.


Transworld Surf posted this photo of me in Hawaii last year from Off The Wall. This day was actually pretty funny. I had been in Hawaii for over a month and was surfed out. I had a hurt neck for a few days and I was so tired I literally couldn’t move. The waves were absolutely firing and I just couldn’t get motivated to get out there. We took our sweet time in the morning with breakfast and coffee, and when I got home I finally saw so many perfect waves I had to catch atleast one. I paddled out and caught one shitty one right when I got out there. After my first shitty one, I decided I was going to sit there and wait for a good one. I sat for what must have been an hour. I saw this perfect wall of water kind of away from the pack that I could get to. As I started to see this wave I was already paddling out and over to it. All of a sudden somebody yelled my name and I was in the wave. It was so easy from then on. I just kinda glided down the face and sat there, then turned towards the beach. It was one of the only rights I’ve ever gotten out there and I remember passing by Brent Bielmann and asking him later if he was in the spot. He said it was maybe gonna be cool but he wasn’t sure. I’m stoked it turned out and cannot wait until next year! Thanks a lot Transworld Surf and Brent BielmannĀ for the photo!




Comments are closed.