There’s something incredibly fun about hopping on a long board and just gliding across some little point break ropers. It’s so simple yet so satisfying. I spent most of my surfing youth, until about age 8 or 9 riding, a long board for the majority of sessions. A while back we had a really solid flat spell around Santa Barbara and I got totally hooked on heading down to Rincon with the 9’6″ and sharing waves with some good friends. Even though it was only knee-waist high we were having a blast. It’s been flat the last few days which has led to me actually cleaning my room… I stumbled across these prints that Donnie Hedden snapped at Rincon during those sessions. Donnie is an awesome photographer and an even better human. Here’s to keeping it simple.

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photo 1-3

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