Currently sitting on my bed with a huge hole in my foot, a gash in my right shoulder, and a near death experience to my name. As well as the beatings I took, I also made some of the best memories of my life. The trip was all based around filming for the new Volcom surf movie “Psychic Migrations.” It was a two part trip for me… the first part was to Macaroni’s with Andrew Doheny, Mitch Coleborn, and Ozzie Wright. Towards the tail end of that trip the swell of a life time popped up on the charts and I did everything I could to make my way over to Kan Dui for the swell. Sure enough, after a mission to get there, the waves showed up and definitely lived up to the hype. I had never seen waves like that before in my life. It was 10-12 feet and absolutely rifling down the reef into this psycho death closeout section. Safe to say it was a damn good month!!!!
DCIM100GOPROG0049416.
