Last week was an awesome week. It was US Open week. I posted up at the shore break hotel and surfed lots of fun heats at Huntington and attended many fun gatherings around the event. All week I was having more fun than ever and just enjoying every moment of the crazy week. I had a really good feeling the whole entire event. Sure enough Saturday rolled around and I found myself in the semi finals of the pro junior. It was a stacked heat, but I managed to get a couple of good waves early on and find a way into the final. When I paddled out in the final I looked back and was blown away by all of the people who were on the pier and beach watching. I took a minute to soak it all in and just think about how grateful I am for my life and the fact that I surf for a living… Pinch me. The final was slow, but the few waves that came, came right to me. It was just one of those heats where things went my way and no one else’s. I knew I had won when I saw a pack of people, lead by my dad, brother, and mom, to carry me up the beach. They practically swam out to the lineup in their clothes and embraced me in huge hugs before lifting me onto their shoulders. It was an amazing feeling and a moment that i will never forget for as long as I live. I can’t thank them enough for their amazing support and for being the best family I could possibly imagine. This photo was sent to me by Billy Watts and I am beyond stoked to have it. Thanks everyone for an epic week!
